Jan
15
2008
A Food Pilgrimage
When one speaks of a pilgrimage, one typically thinks of a long journey to a sacred place. At that sacred place, tributes and homages are paid and, maybe, a sense of awe and humility is instilled in the traveler. I’ve taken one pilgrimage: To the Pacific Ocean in 1996. I traveled alone with little more than a one-man tent and a camp stove. I camped just off the beach in Greenpoint Campground, Long Beach (Pacific Rim National Park, on the west coast of Vancouver Island). I spent a week with the ocean, its lapping waves coaxing me to sleep. Walking the beaches and inlets of that place was a downright holy experience. I’ve been back there a few times since but that ’96 trip remains a special one.
Houses Of The Holy
Food is a sacrament. Sometimes one must go the distance in order to satisfy a spiritual hunger. Enter: The Food Pilgrimage. Silly you say? Perhaps. Some might have an inkling to travel to New York for a titanic corned beef sandwich at a renowned Kosher Deli. Some might head to Paris for cognac, surly service, and some genuine creme brulee. London may hold some appeal for fish and chip fans – there are several legendary fish & chip shops to choose from. Some might consider Los Angeles for what might be the holy grail of burger joints, the In-N-Out Burger. Still others might dip into Mexico for tacos at a streetside taqueria. Me? I have two holy quests that I will one day embark upon:
- To Philadelphia for a genuine Philly Cheese Steak Sandwich
- To Chicago for a genuine Chicago Hot Dog
To me, these represent the holiest of fast food holies. I swear that before I die I WILL have experienced these two delicacies in the native environs because that’s the way of things.
The Philly Cheese Steak
It’s a well known fact that no one outside of Philadelphia slings a good cheese steak sandwich. What exactly is a cheese steak sandwich, you ask? Here’s the Wikipedia article, for those not in the loop. Basically, the sandwich consists of thin slices of browned steak served on a hoagie roll with melted cheese (Cheeze Whiz, typically, in the genuine Philly version). Sometimes the sandwich is served with sauteed onions, green peppers, or mushrooms. I’ve had my share of cheesesteaks here in E-Town. Boston Pizza’s version is a bit unfortunate, what with murky “au jus” on the side. Dadeo on Whyte almost gets it, but not quite. To my palette, and without benefit of having tasted the genuine article, the tastiest seems to be from Hot Philly in Kingsway Mall (they also have a location in WEM, if I’m not mistaken). According to cheesesteak aficinados, the one place for a real Philly is the world-famous Pat’s King Of Steaks in south Philadelphia (sadly, their website is still under construction). They have been serving the genuine article since 1930 and claim to be the originators of the taste. One day I’ll get there. Important Note: Photo of sandwich from Pat’s King of Steaks.
The Chicago Hot Dog
That venerable hero of the fast-food universe, the mighty hot dog. There are many different kinds of hot dogs, but none so beautiful and tasty as the Chicago Dog. A true Chicago dog is a work of art. Here’s the complete and exhaustive online resource for Chicago Dogs, if you’re game. As you can see, a Chicago Dog is very serious business. Very few E-Town eateries are brave enough to place the Chicago Dog on the menu. Fat Frank’s street stands offer plain dogs with some of the necessary condiments – delicious to be sure, but not quite there. Orange Julius offers a pathetic ersatz unit, and a few pubs offer versions that come close. In my home I’ve prepared pretty damn awesome Chicago Dogs, but I couldn’t procure the poppy seed dog buns or those mysterious “sport peppers”. Leads, anyone? A genuine Chicago (loaded, of course) must be purchased from a street vendor and enjoyed in the open air, as all hot dogs must. In my opinion it is damn-near sacrilegious to NOT eat a hot dog outside.
Going The Distance
How far should one go for food nirvana? Is it insane to take a (very costly) trip to the eastern US simply to consume greasy fast food? On such a trip sights will be seen and history soaked up and food eaten. It wouldn’t be all about the food per se. Maybe it’s a bit nuts, but one must heed the call of one’s tummy. Maybe after Chicago and Philly, it’s off to L.A. for an In-N-Out burger. Then New York. Then London. OK. I’m hungry now. See you at the counter.
Adam Snider
Great post, Mike. And one that I’m very glad I didn’t read until AFTER lunch (otherwise I’d be quite hungry).
The food pilgrimage…something I’d not quite thought about before, but I now find myself contemplating my own. I may have to write about this on my own blog.
Oh, and, I’d say you’re right about the Philly cheese steak at Hot Philly. I can’t think of a better E-town version than theirs. And, I believe they also have a Londonderry Mall location (though, it may have closed since I was last in that mall, since it was in a really stupid location, no where near the food court).
# Jan 15 2008 · 12:48
Mike Gravel
Adam – I seem to remember a Hot Philly in Londonderry as well. It’s been a few years since I’ve been there, though. Don’t get to that end of town as much as I’d like, despite having grown up there. There was also one near Oliver Square at one time (I think it’s Marco’s Famous now, at about 112 street and 104 ave). In any case, a trip to Philly will be required.
# Jan 15 2008 · 14:38
Laurie
I heartily suggest adding the Big Easy to your Food Pilgrimage Life List. I am still in the throes of gastronomic ecstasy after a recent trip to New Orleans, where the food culture is a multi-layered sensual and spiritual celebration. The trick is to avoid the greasy tourist pits of Bourbon Street and the high-priced celebrity oyster chefs at the corporate four-star hotels … and commune on the cheap with down & dirty cajun, creole and southern delights like fried green tomatoes at the Hot Burger Cafe; jambalaya at Cafe Orleans; and the traditional muffelata sandwich at Cafe Maspero (washed down with a frosty Abita Amber, of course). Allow yourself one trip to Cafe du Monde for their world-reknowned cafe au lait & beignets, then repent your sins over a mint julep & pizza ladiere (carmelized onions, goat cheese, spiky greens and roasted garlic, garlic, and more garlic) at Club 528 on Fulton Street. The final absolution: bananas foster at the Palace Cafe on Canal Street. Damn the calories and laissez les bon temps roulez!
# Jan 16 2008 · 19:42
Lindy
Here’s an excerpt from Stephen Dobyns for you:
“… How is it possible to want so many things
and still want nothing. The man wants to sleep
and wants to hit his head again and again
against a wall. Why is it all so difficult?
But the dog says, Let’s go make a sandwich.
Let’s make the tallest sandwich anyone’s ever seen.
And that’s what they do and that’s where the man’s
wife finds him, staring into the refrigerator
as if into the place where the answers are kept —
the ones telling why you get up in the morning
and how it is possible to sleep at night,
answers to what comes next and how to like it.”
(“How To Like It” from Velocities, 1994)
# Jan 18 2008 · 07:35
Mike Gravel
Great quote, Lindy. Thanks for that. I always follow my dog’s instructions as well. They lead to better answers, it seems…
# Jan 19 2008 · 09:12
MIng
If you hit Chicago, don’t forget the Deep Dish Pizza.
# Jan 20 2008 · 15:42